Basque Fed

Casa Vallés (Reyes Católicos, 10, Donostia-San Sebastián)

Casa Vallés Bar-Restaurante is the place to go to share bottles of cider and pintxos with friends at its long picnic-style tables. It is also the place to try tortilla de bacalao, a potato and cod omelette. The tortilla de patata, or potato omelette, is Spain’s most famous tapa. Here the addition of bacalao is a uniquely Basque touch, and a delicious one at that. This tortilla is unlike most in that it is rendered sweet, not salty, by caramelized onions that weave through diced potatoes and bits of bacalao, all held together in a wedge by eggs cooked to juicy perfection. A pintxo is €1.70.

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Bar San Marcial (C/ San Marcial, 50, Donostia-San Sebastián)

Located through a small alley and down some steps is Bar San Marcial. Jamón legs hang from its ceiling; azulejos adorn its walls. The gavilla (it’s pronounced “gah-vee-yuh”) is this bar’s prize pintxo, and after one bite you’ll understand why. A crispy, crunchy exterior gives way to the creamiest of fillings, its ingredients obscured by its texture and delicious flavor. It is a combination of bechamel sauce and pork loin, surrounding melted swiss cheese and ham. It is then breaded and fried. The final product: one of the best pintxos in this city.

One gavilla is €1.70. Order it with a caña (beer) for no more than €3.00.

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Restaurante ni neu (Zurriola, 1, Donostia-San Sebastián)

Ni neu, the new restaurant at the Kursaal[1], offers an excellent opportunity to try Donostia-San Sebastián’s famed “nueva cocina[2].” Bacalao confitado en aceite de oliva con pil pil y perlas de marisco is their contemporary version of the Basque classic, bacalao al pil pil. Here the cod is slow-cooked in olive oil and served on a bed of soft fish eggs. A tad salty, this seafood dish achieves perfection with a dollop of pil pil sauce, a garlic-flavored olive oil emulsion.

A pintxo is €4.00. For €10.00 you can enjoy the Menú Desgustación: three pintxos including the bacalao confitado, plus a glass of wine.

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[1] The Kursaal is Donostia-San Sebastián’s cultural center and the site of the annual International Film Festival.

[2] “Nueva cocina” (or nouvelle cuisine) was a movement born in France during the 1970s that broke from traditional cooking. It places great importance on the presentation of food and is characterized by creativity and fusion during the cooking process.

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Izar (C/ Mayor, 1, Donostia-San Sebastián)

Famous for its many three-star restaurants, Donostia-San Sebastián is also home to a number of world-class pastelerías (pastry shops). Izar is one of the city’s best, and its house specialty, the “gorbea,” is worth a special journey. Named after a mountain in the region for its undulating cap of hojaldre (puff pastry), the gorbea is a construction of pastry cream and whipped cream separated by more delicate sheets of hojaldre. With its crunchy caramelized sugar on top and notes of apple in between, this pastry makes for a delicious late afternoon snack over coffee.

It’s €2.60 and, what’s more, it’s 100% home-made.

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Bar Aralar (Puerto, 10, Donostia-San Sebastián)

Cod is a fundamental element of Basque cuisine, so it is not surprising to see it prepared dozens of ways. Bacalao ajoarriero, my personal favorite, is cod in a garlic and pepper sauce. At Aralar, a bar in the center of Donostia-San Sebastián’s Parte Vieja, you can order this version of cod hot on a piece of bread. The little pieces of cod aren’t too salty and the sauce is just the right amount of garlic-y with a touch of sweet, thanks to the peppers.

If cod isn’t your thing, you’ll find dozens of other delicious pintxos to choose from. The runner up: a brochette of olive, pickle, and bonito. It’s a great combination of vinegars and oils.

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Bar Ciaboga (C/ Easo, 9, Donostia-San Sebastián)

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It may not look like much, but Bar Ciaboga is one of the most popular locals’ joints in the city. Despite its small size and equally small menu, it’s often crowded and jubilant. Everyone orders the house speciality, “patatas al ajillo.” These potatoes, crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside, are sautéd in a garlic and parsley olive oil and served with bread and paprika. A light sprinkling and a glass of white wine to match make this plate a great snack.

A ración of patatas al ajillo is €2.70. Pair it with a glass of txakoli (local white wine) for only 4 euros.

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Bideluze Café-Bar (C/ Garibay, 24, Donostia-San Sebastián)

The place is Bideluze Café-Bar and the pintxo of note is the “cojonudo.” Meaning “goddamn brilliant” according to some translations, the cojonudo is a combination of bacon, topped with roasted pimiento del piquillo (red pepper), a huevo de cordoniz (quail’s egg), and txistorra[1] (the Basque-style chorizo[2]). At only 2 euros, there’s no reason not to taste this brilliance on bread.

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[1] Txistorra is pronounced “chee-stora.”

[2] Chorizo is a type of cold-cured pork sausage, usually smoked. In Spain, it is made with pimentón (paprika) which gives it its characteristic red color.

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