It was the first time in my live i went to surf. And it happened not just somewhere but in one of the most popular places in the world, where surfers are coming especially to catch the vawes in Zarautz, Basque Country, Spain.
We organized a two hours class with two great teatchers. At first, I was thinking that i wont go to the water, because it was rainig so strong and the wind was blowing like crazy. We put our suits took board and went to the beach.
At the begining, we were practising on the beach, making some funny but usuful exersices. After we went to the water which was 16 degrees. You dont feel any cold any more, you are just very exited and want to cach your first vawe, what is almost impossible…
We were in water two hours. I was trying to stand for some second on a bord hundrers of times but only 3 of 4 time I could do that. This is a great feeling then you are standing on a board and under it is running a strong vawe. I, actually, was thinking to wait and catch bigger vawes because the bigger the vawe the better you can stand.
Now I can understand why people are doing this kind of sport. I wish I could do this one more time.